Photographed by Martha Williams
Eleven years in the past, chef Octavio Aguirre got here to Atlanta with a dream to carry his Mexican tradition to the South. To his shock, his salsas had been too spicy and his mezcals too robust. Coming from a household of jimadores (agave growers) and tacoros (taco specialists) in Jalisco, he did not need to miss the chance to showcase the scrumptious Mexican delicacies he grew up with. So he took it upon himself, with the assistance of his spouse, Roxana Aguirre, to assist broaden Atlanta’s palate.
Enter Pata Negra Mezcaleria, the couple’s third restaurant enterprise in Atlanta, proper off Peachtree Highway in Buckhead. Black partitions, dried maguey roots hanging from the ceiling and glossy harvesting instruments on show create a welcoming, mezcal-centric ambiance. The distinctive decor is eye-catching, as is the spectacular agave spirits choice behind the bar. Eschewing celebrity-endorsed manufacturers and syrup-laden margaritas, Pata Negra’s cocktail and spirits program opens the door to the historical past and heritage of Mexico’s agave plant. It provides a collection of spirits hardly ever discovered outdoors the nation.
Mezcal is commonly in comparison with tequila, rightly so. Tequila is a sort of mezcal—made particularly from the Blue Weber agave plant. Mezcal is constituted of greater than 30 kinds of agave, which offer totally different tones and flavors. Smoke is the commonest taste be aware talked about, adopted by agave and others relying on the distillation course of: earth, pepper, citrus, vanilla and even leather-based. The usually clear spirit can generally flip a comfortable yellow when it is aged. “It is like wine,” mentioned Roxana, proprietor of Ancestral Bottle Store, within the Westside paper. “Completely different agaves, areas and manufacturing processes produce totally different taste profiles.”
Mezcal, which has been round for the reason that sixteenth century, has crossed Mexico’s borders lately. From 2003 to 2023, demand for mezcal in the USA has elevated by almost 300 %.
As mezcal has grown in reputation and mass manufacturing of the spirit has elevated, Atlanta mixologists are getting artistic with mezcal cocktails. Chef Octavio suggests being attentive to the spirit being served. “You do not need to water down mezcal with sugar water,” he says. “Learn the bottle and go for one hundred pc ave spirit.” Small-batch Mexican manufacturers that keep true to their heritage and use artisanal processes—like 5 Centidos, Teo Pesca, Pescador de Sueos, Vago and Los Siete Mysterios—at the moment are straightforward to search out behind bars in Atlanta.
Bartender Antoinette Boanova at Atlas in Buckhead provides a candy, citrusy, floral cocktail of refreshing hibiscus with banheiro mezcal. For coconut and tangy notes, order the Southern Ardour cocktail, however request that the rum known as for within the recipe get replaced with banheiro mezcal for a smokier taste.
For a light-weight cocktail, seize a Matsuyama jacket by Jose Buitrago at Umi. Impressed by the primary Japanese skilled golfer to win the Masters, the cocktail makes use of citrus and shiso syrup to play off Los Ciete Mysterios mezcal, with a barely spicy end.
José Pereiro’s Piña Cocktail at MidCity in Midtown provides one other mezcal-forward expertise. Right here, pineapple takes a again seat, letting the smokiness of Los Sit Mysterios mezcal dominate the stout seltzer—just like the carbonated cocktail on faucet. For the adventurous, the Elote cocktail, that includes candy corn, provides a comfortable introduction to mezcal with the delicate taste of the robust spirit.
Mezcal in Atlanta can be loved the best way it was supposed: neat and at room temperature. Select from one of many tasting choices at Patria Cocina in Grant Park, or request Pata Negra’s mezcal cart to be guided by the specialists. If you’re able to share with pals, go to Ancestral Roxana to search out hard-to-find artisan bottles with distinctive tales.
“Mezcal is just not a pattern,” says Roxana. “It is a life-style.”
This text appeared in our August 2024 subject.
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