Photographed by Martha Williams
One other weekend, one other culinary fishing expedition. This time at Ponce Metropolis Market and chef Hector Santiago’s new La Metro, his hangout at Spain’s tapas bar.
This is not the chef’s first tapas rodeo. Many Atlantans fondly bear in mind his extremely regarded restaurant Pura Vida, which closed its doorways on Highland Avenue in 2012, years after his memorable flip as a contestant on Season 6. high chef. His new place could also be surrounded by costly outlets, however his ardour, mission and the occasional visitor flamenco dancer make you are feeling such as you’ve walked down the streets of Barcelona or Madrid, and fewer such as you’ve simply walked out. Close by Williams-Sonoma.
The market is already house to Santiago’s different counter-style eatery, El Tremendous Pan, which is kitty-corner from its new location. A few cocktails and some nibbles, together with Manchego Madura and San Simon cheeses, made us head to the L-shaped bar. The citrus and foamy mercado bitter was perfection, as was the daring solera old school.
As we perused the number of pintxos (bites) and bocatas (sandwiches) and perused the Spanish wine record, we additionally took within the room: an open structure affords views of the bustling prep stations and quiet, pots-and-pans up entrance. Rear dealing with kitchen. On show are attractive Spanish and Moroccan tiles, stained glass, carafe pendants, and glimpses of the motion behind the quartz-topped bar—the place alchemy abounds, frosted metallic drawers open, and beautiful glassware is dealt with.
Exuberant normal supervisor and govt chef Brian Carson is fast with tapas strategies, together with each day specials, equivalent to paella of the day and rotating gadgets like Bilbao chorizo with olive oil and whipped potatoes. When doubtful, begin with croquetas, patatas brava and cured hams. A protracted tinned fish menu affords staples like sardines, plus a vegan “fish” made with celery root, in addition to piquillo peppers full of spider crab.
Basque cheesecake, with its charred crust and creamy filling, balances the richness of sheep’s milk cheese with tart lemon zest. A pour of Licor 43, a Spanish liqueur made in Cartagena, proved a heady companion.
This text appeared in our January 2025 problem.
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