Picture by Bailey Garrott
A grey mist hangs over the grounds of Rogers Greens and Roots on a January morning. Pushing by means of the mud, farmer Ashley Rogers apologizes for the seasonal mess. “I believe winter is when the farm seems the worst,” she says “Simply due to all of the mud and restarts for the season.” As we walked additional into the farm, the air smelled sturdy. It is jarring, nevertheless it’s additionally thrilling—we lastly get to the “maternity ward,” the place Rogers homes her mixed-race pigs.
Rogers purchased his 64-acre farm within the Chattahoochee flood plain close to Douglasville in 2015. She quickly made waves as one of many few feminine farmers within the Atlanta space and have become recognized for her extraordinary produce offered at Peachtree Street Farmers. Markets and eating places round city.
In 2022, nonetheless, it was time to make a change. He realized that the veggie aspect of the farming enterprise would solely take him thus far – diversification was a essential subsequent step. “I used to be making an attempt to determine how you can preserve my enterprise alive,” Rogers says.
Picture by Bailey Garrott
There was additionally a private pivot within the type of a divorce from his spouse. Rogers took out a mortgage to assist cowl the prices of the divorce and wanted a aspect hustle to lift funds. Pigs are much less labor-intensive than manufacturing, which requires an extended course of and extra upkeep. Pigs, however, are fed and should be moved, however they’re largely out of hand. “I’ve at all times needed to do animals. It was at all times on the horizon for me,” Rogers stated. “I used to be ready for the enterprise to get to that time the place I may deliver it. However then the divorce hit me.”
Jet black, with drooping faces and hair that resembles cactus needles (however feels a lot softer), the Mishan pig is taken into account one of many oldest domesticated pig breeds, originating in China. When Rogers added pigs to his farm, the mild, candy nature of the combination appealed to him. “I by no means felt that pigs had been so engaging, however once I visited Clover Blossom Farmstead [outside Athens], and noticed their animals and met them, I assumed, ‘They’re so stunning.’ I used to be simply drawn to them,” Rogers stated. The Mission breed can be fairly tasty. “The meat is nearer to beef in coloration and taste,” Rogers says. In accordance with the American Mission Breeders Affiliation, the lighter lard renders at a decrease temperature than commonplace grocery retailer pork, a meat Leaves which can be extra tender.
We cease to go to the rutabaga, a seed that’s anticipated to provide a litter any day now. Like an excited canine, Rutabaga leaps his 350-pound physique from my legs, and pecks my hand together with his pink nostril, demanding an ear scratch, which I fortunately oblige—his huge, floppy ears are buttery-soft. “I did not wish to preserve him [from getting butchered], however he gained us over,” Rogers stated. “By means of the labor course of, you bond with them. I undoubtedly did not have a relationship with any of them till they bought pregnant and had children.”
When Rogers purchased her first pig, from breeder Wendy Patton of Imperial Missions in Bartow, her lack of livestock expertise gave approach to a steep studying curve. There have been some “oopsy” litters, for instance, when a male wasn’t forged correctly. Now he sees his pigs by means of seven litters and takes a batch month-to-month to Yoder’s Butcher Block in Montezuma, Georgia, the place the pigs are slaughtered and processed into completely different cuts. Varied different elements are additionally offered, together with the lard, yoke and leg. He sells meat underneath the Rogers Pastry Mission label on the Peachtree Street Farmers Market and hopes to develop to native butcher retailers. Ultimately, he hopes to open a farm store on his property in a restored 1800s dwelling and promote meat there.
Picture by Bailey Garrott
Greater than a monetary boon, the pigs helped Rogers rediscover a misplaced sense of pleasure. They plucked the 37-year-old lady and helped her discover her method after a divorce.
“You get to lift an animal. Sure, it is laborious since you’re slaughtering a few of them, however I can relate to those moms, and the farrowing course of is gorgeous,” Rogers stated. He not too long ago witnessed the beginning of a sow, and watched her undergo contractions as she gave beginning to her first piglet.
“Sure, greens are nonetheless thrilling for me,” she says. “Nevertheless it’s extra thrilling.”
This text appeared in our April 2024 difficulty.
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